West Auckland, with its sweeping views over the meandering River Wear, is home to the Manor House Hotel, a building very much part of the fabric of this corner of County Durham's unique history.
Head a mile or so out of town for a further dose of ancient times at the Binchester Roman Fort, or to nearby Escomb and its fine early Christian architecture. Shopaholics will love the south end of Newgate Street or Fore Bondgate, for specialist shops you just won't find on most high streets.